Meet The Chef Bringing Fine Dining Finesse To The Neighborhood Cafe

Read original story on Forbes.com

Chef Ryan Butler is no stranger to the world of fine dining. After receiving a pastry degree from the Culinary Institute of America he worked in several top kitchens around New York City, including Park Avenue Café (where he worked as a pastry chef under acclaimed chef Richard Leach), Tocqueville (as executive pastry chef) and Gramercy Park Hotel (where he managed pastry operations). During this time Butler learned from industry vets and fine-tuned his unique approach to pastry, which he details in his own words below.

After helping the team at now-closed Piora earn its first Michelin star, Butler set off on a different path. He opened the first location of Butler, a bakery-cafe, in Williamsburg in the fall of 2016 with co-founders Rod Coligado and Hugo Murray. At Butler (which opened its second location in DUMBO earlier this year), chef has curated a menu of sweet and savory baked goods which are served alongside Intelligentsia Coffee – plus beer, wine and cider at the Williamsburg outpost.

Menu highlights include gluten-free sticky date muffins, apple miso crostata (recipe here) and breakfast empanadas. Butler hosts intimate cooking classes (up to 12 people) on a weekly basis at the DUMBO location (booked via Airbnb Experiences). Guests who attend enjoy complimentary beer and wine throughout the experience, a demonstration led by chef Butler himself (during which you can ask any and all of your burning baking questions), and a box of freshly-baked goods.

In an interview, chef Butler shares how he fell in love with pastry, why he decided to move away from fine dining, and what he sees for the future of Butler and his culinary career.

Abigail Abesamis: Where does your passion for pastry come from? When did you know you wanted to become a pastry chef?

Ryan Butler: I grew up in a family that loves sweets; dessert was big in our household. My love for pastry began there. I actually knew I wanted to be in the pastry field when I was about 12. I used to watch old cooking shows on PBS and couldn’t wait for the dessert segments. I was working in my local bakery by age 16.

Abesamis: What were the most important things you learned in culinary school?

Butler: I went to CIA in the late 90s, and the curriculum was very much based on classical techniques. I’ve carried that training with me throughout my career. Culinary school was my intro to the fundamentals.

Abesamis: Tell me about your work at Piora. What were your biggest challenges and what did it mean to help lead the restaurant to a Michelin star?

Butler: Piora was a unique experience. The executive chef and myself went to high school together and hadn’t seen each other in a long time. I was into what he was doing at Piora and reached out to see if they were looking for a pastry chef. The challenge was that I was a team of one and worked every day the restaurant was open. That said, achieving the star was truly a monumental effort from the whole team. That kind of teamwork is what really made my time there enjoyable.

Abesamis: How would you describe your approach to pastry?

Butler: Seasonality plays a huge part. I also strive to balance the sweet with savory aspects. Since opening Butler, I have really been enjoying reimagining familiar flavors and desserts into modern classics and dipping into healthier options as well.  

Abesamis: What made you decide to leave fine dining and open a neighborhood cafe?

Butler: I had made up my mind to leave fine dining after Piora. I'd been in that world for many years, so I was looking for a new challenge and a different way to use my skill set. We also had a baby on the way and it was time for a lifestyle change.

I've always admired bakery cafes and it was one hospitality concept I had never been a part of. I was lucky enough to find great business partners with great vision and a high level of operations and marketing experience.

Abesamis: How has your job changed? What are your biggest challenges now, and what do you enjoy most?

Butler: My role is very different from anything I’ve done in the past. I’ve had to put on my manager hat and focus on the systems that scale a business up. Our business model requires us to produce dozens of each pastry at a time, whereas in a restaurant you make fewer, more complex plates.

My challenges have been making sure our pastries are unique but approachable and ensuring we are able to execute them in large volumes while maintaining a level of quality. Quality control is a different ballgame in this space.

One of the things I’m really enjoying in this new role is R&D. I love developing our menu and putting out new and innovative items. I’m also having a great time teaching our baking classes; it’s a nice change of pace and a cool way to connect with the community.

Abesamis: What kind of pastries do you like to make at home?

Butler: I typically cook more at home than I bake, but like making savory pies for my wife Erin and son Lennox. They love a chicken pot pie.

Abesamis: Why did you decide to host baking classes at Butler?

Butler: My partners thought it would be great to share my knowledge with our community in a fun and engaging way. I really enjoy teaching and hosting the guests, it's a nice contrast from being focused on production and operations.

Abesamis: Finally, what is your vision for Butler and for your own career?

Butler: I'm hoping Butler will continue to grow and expand. It would be great to add an ice cream program, I really miss working with ice cream. I’ve always wanted to do a dessert bar concept too. As for myself, I love the idea of expanding into food media to host a podcast or even a baking show.